The port city of Onomichi lies between Fukuyama and the prefectural capital Hiroshima on the Sanyo Shinkansen Line. My first few years in Japan were spent in Fukuyama, and I visited Onomichi for occasional day trips. "Pleasant" was the word that sprang to mind.

Twenty-five years ago, Onomichi had a peaceful vibe, largely thanks to the many temples dotted around, and the main tourist attraction was taking the ropeway up to the most famous of these, Senkoji. The bright orange temple has become a main symbol of the city, offering views out over the Seto Inland Sea. Onomichi was also home to a large number of writers, who were the inspiration for the Path of Literature, a winding trail featuring quotes carved into stones.

During a recent trip to the region, I found that Onomichi has metamorphosed from a merely "pleasant" day trip to a full-blown destination in its own right. One of the biggest reasons is the Shimanami Kaido bike trail, which opened in 1999. The 70-kilometer route runs from Onomichi to Imabari, Ehime Prefecture in Shikoku, traversing six islands and seven bridges, and the panoramic sea views and distinct feel of each island have helped make the trail an international tourist attraction.